Popular Posts

Wednesday, July 22, 2009

Citadel Hill on the Wings of a Beatle















"You can't be serious!" I said incredulously. "I can too, if I have to ." Replied my brother Larry. "And I am dead serious about this, there are still tickets." "Wow! Paul McCartney, hey honey they still have tickets to Paul McCartney wanna go?" "Sure!" My wife Lina replied. "When is it?" "Next Saturday, we gotta get tickets." "You didn't ask how much." My brother added. "All right, how much?" "One hundred twenty five plus tax" "I am still going!" I added. "Who is opening for him?" "Joel Plaskett'" "Whooo Hoooo! I'd pay $125 to see him! I love Joel Plaskett! I'm in" We headed to the local store to get tickets. "You'll get a patch of grass." My brother chided. "Then I'll need a chair!" I said enthusiastically. "Perfect! " I said pointing to a pile of chairs marked $8.99. I grabbed two as Lina put the tickets away.


I hadn't even known about the concert when we left the NWT. I had been so busy that we hadn't spent a lot of time on the net or watching TV. But this was too good to miss. As you can guess you don't get a lot of concerts in Tulita NT pop. 490, well 488 with us away. We left Tulita in a Cessna 172 a four seater known as the "Skyhawk" a sturdy little plane that does not live up to its' glorious name. It is more of a skysparrow as it bounces along on summer updraughts. It turns a fifteen minute flight to Norman Wells into a bumpy thirty minute ordeal. I dread showing up for a flight and finding an empty terminal as this invariably means a small plane. These little birds have been flitting about the skies since the mid fifties and many in current use date from the fifties or sixties, this is not unusual as the maintenance is very stringent. In the wells we get on a jet for the trip to Edmonton.

We spend eleven months in the isolation of the arctic, so there was no question that we were going to treat ourselves to McCartney tickets. I could still hardly believe it. Good thing we were off on an adventure to Annapolis Royal in the heart of Nova Scotia's lovely Annapolis Valley. We left on Wednesday Morning, the concert was Saturday night and we would be back just in the nick of time. The Annapolis trip was great we wandered the streets of historic Annapolis then went for a graveyard tour at 9:30 that night, which was amazing. The guy who conducted it was tenth generation Acadian and the pride in his amazing people dripped from his rich voice. He told the history of the local people from the Mi'kmaq to the Acadians to the African Canadians to the English settlers while strolling from stone to stone in the ancient graveyard. It had the oldest tombstones in Canada dating to 1710. It was a perfect evening, a little drizzly and a little foggy, just the perfect atmosphere for wandering a graveyard.. . The next day we went to Port Royal and saw one of the first European settlements in Canada. The weather was beautiful. We spent the day in Annapolis and went to Brier Island the next day to go whale watching. Brier Island has some of the best whale watching in Nova Scotia. But this year the whales were playing hard to get. The trips usually last three or four hours but this would be over seven hours. We went and Lina and i had one heck of a time. We got to see a Minke whale and three different Humpback whales. The humpbacks put on a hell of a show, frolicking in the water on their backs splashing the water with there huge flukes. I loved it. We spent the night at the lodge on Brier Island and attended the Fireman';s breakfast the next morning. I am a volunteer Firefighter too so I loved talking to the guys on the Brier Island Department seems we have many of the same problems.

The next day was concert day and it dawned bright and clear. We were already burnt from our seven plus hours on the water the day before, but we couldn't wait to reach the Hill. We hit Dartmouth in late afternoon and my brother dropped us off while he went to change vehicles and grab our chairs. We took the ferry across Halifax harbor, there were lots of people with lawn chairs just like us and a party atmosphere filled the warm afternoon air as we let the sun beat down on our faces from the top deck. We could see crowds filing up Citadel hill that dominates the landscape of Halifax's Northeast end. We climbed the hill with the lines of concert goers and stopped occasionally to catch our breath. "I'll follow you." A lady from out of town said "I have no idea where I am going." "Well, we'll get you there but I am not sure it will be the shortest route!" I replied. I looked around some time later but we had lost her. There were thousands of others so I am sure she made it. It was just after 5 pm. but already there were people staking claim to free seats on the back slopes of Citadel Hill. The Citadel, the stone fort that was the reason Halifax became the capitol, had never fired a shot in anger. She stands over the city now, providing a fitting backdrop to such spectacles.

The Halifax common is an area of park and sport fields left open in the heart of a modern city by an ancient custom. It belongs to the people of Halifax and they use it every day, to walk dogs, to play baseball, or just to lie on the grass and read or have a picnic. But tonight 52,000 paying customers and perhaps ten thousand more were going to enjoy the concert for free. I don't think even the event organizers would mind, they had made their money and the crowd was here for one reason only and that was to have a good time. We joined the throng that was filing through security, they searched our chairs and my back pack. I didn't even have a camera. I was here to experience the whole thing. We needed a bathroom and there were hundreds, no line up at all, the last time that would be true this night believe me!

Lina took the lead "Follow me, I am way better at getting to the front!" I had seen her in action too many times to argue with my diminutive firebrand. Soon we were sitting one row back from the rail that marked the front of our section. We parked our chairs and bought some fries and an ice cold beer. We were going to have a blast. The seats were not half bad, dead center if a ways back we would see everything. The crowd around us was a talkative bunch. "Hey where ya from buddy?" a guy in front of us asked. "Well we're from the NWT although I grew up here in Halifax." I replied. "NWT? Wow that Rocks! Hey everybody these guys came all the way from the NWT to see Sir Paul!" A big guy with four beer in a cardboard tray stepped froward to shake my hand. He was finishing the second of them. "Right on!" he exclaimed, where's your beer?" I hoisted it and we clinked cans. "Oh I hope he doesn't do one of those one hour sets and then take off." added the woman sitting next to him. "Me too!" added a guy behind me. "I didn't come here to see him put in half a performance. Some of the these superstars forget who made them what they are!" "I just want a good solid two hour show, with lots of feeling!" I added. "Amen!" came a chorus of voices.

We exchanged small talk with those around us. The guy next to me had gotten free tickets. His parents run a convenience store on the edge of the commons. Near the armoury. "My Dad gave me the tickets. The promoter set up this photo where the Mayor and the Premier and a couple of other Big Wigs walked across the road dressed like the Beatles on the Abbey Road cover. They inconvenienced my parents customers so they got free tickets and gave them to me!" "Nice!" I exclaimed enthusiastically. We began to bond, being fans united in a common cause. We exchanged directions to the Fry wagon, Beer tent and washrooms. We watched each others stuff while each coupler went about their business. Soon the first band Halifax's own Wintersleep was taking the stage. They were an up and coming band, being given the chance of a lifetime and they weren't wasting it. They put in a lively performance to an enthusiastic if restless crowd. The expensive seats (Which consisted of bleachers or standing room in front of the stage)was filling up slowly, apparently the rich folks weren't interested in the opening acts. There loss as the opening acts were pretty damn good. Us common rabble were having a good time

After Wintersleep was to come Joel Plaskett. I couldn't wait. The crowd on our side of the fence was picking up too. Chairs were being added to our end of the row and it was good too as there was a patch of dust that was constantly blowing around making life a bit miserable.

Before too long Joel took the stage, apparently there had been a power problem but soon he was wowing the local audience. Joel told of how he too had come across from Dartmouth on the Ferry. The audience was into Joel, and many people were in the same boat as me and would have paid money just to see Joel and his Band the Emergency. I thought the audience would go ballistic when Joel Sang "I Love This Town" a song he wrote about Halifax. "I saw your band In the early days... we all understand why you moved away... We'll hold a grudge anyways..." No we won't Joel, all is forgiven. You Rock!

A lull followed Joel Plaskett while the stage was prepared for Paul McCartney. During this pause a group of people in the rich folks section started to set up a tent, right smack dab in the middle of the view of the stage for all those of us in the general admission section. This was so not happening. We had bonded. We had learned each others names or mentally assigned each other a name. I was NWT guy there was four beer guy and lost Guy who kept asking if anyone had seen his friends whose lawn chairs were still there. We all let out a collective howl. More people appeared with aluminum poles and a huge awning. "No way!": someone yelled. We were all standing now, against the railing waving our hands and protesting. "We have been here for four hours, you can't put that up in front of us now!" I yelled. "You tell him NWT!" Whooped my friend on the free tickets. We presented a united front. We made it clear that no barricade would hold us back if they set up that monstrosity.We spoke for the legions of fans behind us who could not be heard and we were victorious. We high fived each other as the poles and awning were removed. We were buoyed and ebullient. We went about our tasks as the stage was prepared.

When we returned to our chairs we discovered a group of people from the standing area had infiltrated our area and were standing in front of us blocking our view. This was too much. We asked them politely to move to the left where people were already standing but they would not move. "We paid $140 to see this show and there is nothing in our tickets that say we can't stand here!" We pointed out that the four of them were blocking the view for thousands who had also paid $140 and had been there for four hours, but they were adamant. "Call the cops!" Jeered their vocal leader. I stood up and looked over my shoulder at that moment four security people were to my immediate rear. "Happy to oblige Ya!" I said and I motioned to the guards who looked glad to have something to do. The leader's bravado was less noticeable when he spoke to the security people but he was just as adamant. A cry went up from the crowd "We moved that tent do you think we will stand still for the four of you?" We all laughed. The arrival of a uniformed police officer ensured that cooler heads prevailed and they were quite contrite and apologetic as they beat a hasty retreat. Again we exchanged high fives and I think this crowd could have solved world poverty if we set our minds to it we were solid. "Nice going NWT!" yelled four beer. Again we clinked cans we were primed. And then as if on cue a roar rose from the crowd. It was a little after nine. McCartney was supposed to be on stage at nine thirty. Could this be it? Was he really here? I whipped out my binoculars and spotted him bounding on to the stage. We all roared and exchanges yet another high five.

McCartney made an appearance and shouted "Hello Halifax!" We roared back. The sun wasstarting to set and the air was electric. We were keen and there was the expectation that this was going to be a special night. "How many chances are we going to get to see a living Beatle?" someone had said earlier. They were right, John and George were gone leaving Paul and Ringo to carry the mantle, but Paul was here, now, LIVE and we were going to share this night, this glorious day, this air full of excitement. We were going to rock this hill and we were going to show Paul McCartney one amazing response. As the band began to play the crowd roared, pulsed with the beat and suddenly we all were standing, singing and dancing as we all gave ourselves a collective pinch to see if it was real. I looked into Lina's eyes and her excitement mirrored my own. We pumped our fists in the air and sang out loud.

With each new song a cheer went up, many people had their favorite song and each person was waiting for one or more specific songs. I too was waiting for a song, my favorite, Yesterday. Paul knocked off song after song, not just sung but sung with feeling and we gave back with just as much feeling singing along and vociferously answering any questions or challenges from Sir Paul. There was no doubt that this was a love in. We were here to share a special moment, a moment that all of us knew would never exist again. Therefore, instead of pining the passage of the moment we fully lived the moment, carpe diem, we seized that day and wrung every last minute out of it. There is something about listening to an artist when you know every chord, every word of every song. They have been the soundtrack of your life, no matter how old you are and there were people of all ages here. Considering the size of the crowd, the heat, the available alcohol, the whole group was remarkably well behaved. Even our would be usurpers had left with wishes for us to enjoy the concert. No doubt about that! Sir Paul had come to play! He was playing the best of more than forty years of hits, and he was playing them with heart. We in turn were opening up our hearts and letting him know just how much we really did appreciate it. The sun set, the screens were easier to see now and the audience, well, I don't want to say that we were worshipping McCartney, but we were In love. In love with the moment. In love with the music. The glorious, glorious music.

One concert goer held up a sign, it read; "Sign my arm and I'll have it tattooed!". "How can I concentrate on the lyrics with someone holding up a sign like that?" McCartney asked and we all laughed. He invited her up on stage and signed her arm. The audience went ballistic. So did she, she kissed everyone on stage except the drummer who was up on kind of pedestal. "Now you'll have to get it done" Said Sir Paul. We roared. I don't know how they did it but the next day the news carried the story of the girl. She was from California, of all places. She had flown to Halifax just to see McCartney. She had seen him many times. And she DID get the tattoo. But when she went to the tattoo parlor the guy refused to do the job until she went out and got some McCartney music to listen to. Too perfect!

He played a ton of songs, we sang along. He took out a Ukulele and told us how George Harrison had given it to him. He did a Harrison song " O My Lord" and we all got a lump in our throats. He also talked about John Lennon. He played "Give Peace a Chance" and the lump in the throat returned more than a few people shed tears. "I wish he could be here." McCartney said and I wanted to yell that he was there, in his music ans in his message. I felt again the shock and the pain of that day when I turned on the little black and white TV in my upstairs bedroom in the parents house and heard the news of his murder. Elton John had the right idea ion his tribute to John when he wrote "Funny how one insect can damage so much grain" he did not immortalize the poor, sick, wretch who had done this thing, this unspeakable thing. He left the credit where it was due. To an amazing man with an amazing talent and a gentle nature.

Then he sang "Blackbird" only a week earlier, to the day I had sat on my Aunt's sofa and listened to my cousin Tracy sing that very song, so beautifully I can't describe it. What a song and here now one week later I was listening to the man who wrote it. Again I looked at Lina and I did not have to speak. She put both her hands in mine and we locked eyes. No words passed between us but I knew that she too was loving every line and was thinking back to that moment and the sound to Tracy's voice and the strumming of a single acoustic guitar. Pure sweet and perfect, the way great music is supposed to be.
The biggest response came when the Nova Scotia tartan appeared on the big screens. I felt a wave of pride as a member of Halifax's own 78th Highland Regiment began to play the pipes. Now it may be my Scottish blood, or it may have been the time and the place but I too was yelling at the top of my lungs when McCartney began to sing "Mull Of Kintyre" the largest selling single he ever had with The Beatles or with Wings. Over two million copies sold. It was The UKs top selling single for seven years. This moment and perhaps the fireworks on the drum beat during "Live and Let Die" were two of the highlights of the entire concert.

The night was wonderful and when he said that he had to go, I was satisfied. He had done all I wanted and more. But the crowd did not want to let go. They chanted "Sir Paul, Sir Paul" and in a moment or two he reappeared, with guitar and played three more songs, including "Yesterday" in fact he played three sets of three songs in encore. The dessert to this musical feast. I could push back from the table now. Fully fed, to leave this hill, this common, this special place.

In any event of this size there are a thousand stories. The guy who worked at the hotel where McCartney stayed who went up and down in the elevator with him. The girl from California, the guy whose parents owned the convenience store. We all have a story. Including the story of one couple from he NWT who got to see one of the most famous human beings on earth. Who got to share a special moment under a summer sky, as it passed from day to night. We left as we had come, ants filing back down the hill, to our ferry boat across the harbor, to home , to bed to dream.